We held our hands up to our noses and tried to block the stench of stale urine as we walked through the narrow laneways.  There were cows being revered, Sadhu’s and beggars crouching on the cobbled paths and the faithful lined up outside the tiny temples, with their floors ashen and sooty from the burning embers. Even for the initiated, Varanasi makes Old Delhi look ordered. At 5.30am, the frothy chai was… Read More