From the moment you step foot in Leh, you get a sense that you’ve crossed the threshold into an otherworldly place. Though it’s only an hours flight from Delhi, nothing feels familiar; it’s India but not as you know it. The stretch of barren mountains fills every direction and fold into the rocky valleys that burst with life along the winding pale jade waters of the Sindhu River. Leh is the capital… Read More
It wasn’t the kind of sight I thought I’d face when we walked through the nondescript gates of a rambling monastery on the southern side of town. But there I was, peering into a pentagonally shaped case, taller than me and stacked high with human skulls, cheekbones pressed against the glass. To my left two female monks, one older than the other, sat in a shaded pergola reciting prayers, the soft words… Read More